Your Steel-Clipper hull will give many more years of carefree service with considerably less upkeep, than boats of older type construction. However, there are several basic precautions that must be observed. The special alloy, steel hull is coated, inside and out, with a Vinyl plastic (Barrier Coat No. 718). Any good boat paints may be used over it. We use a Flat White * No. 727 on the topsides because a flat paint will gradually chalk off during the year, making a cleaner boat and keeping down the over-all weight as flat does not build up heavy layers of paint. It also tends to hide any irregularities in the hull plating.
The anti-fouling paint for the bottom MUST definitely state on the can that is for "STEEL BOATS". We use No. 720 (Woolsey). NEVER APPLY ANTI-FOULING PAINT TO BARE METAL. Do not paint over zinc pads on strut.
RE-FINISHING. Do not attempt to remove the plastic to get down to bare metal. If there are gouges through the plastic or rust spots, sand or wire brush until ALL the exposed metal is shiny and then apply a coat of BARE-METAL PRIMER* No. 716/717 and then five or six coats of BARRIER COAT* No. 718. Then apply finish coats or anti-fouling.
Your Steel-Clipper hull has been assembled to that Electrolytic action has been eliminated. One of the most important steps in the insulation of the bronze propeller and shaft from the steel hull. This is done by the use of rubber shaft bearings and the machining and boring of the propeller shaft-motor coupling and the insertation of micarta washers and bushings. Always carefully replace these washers and bushings when working at the coupling. No brass or bronze fittings, bolts, etc. can be used underwater in contact with the steel hull. Use steel. NEVER GROUND ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS TO THE HULL - run two wires to all accessories.
DEALER'S RESPONSIBILITIES. The purchaser at Dealer's Prices is
responsible for mechanical adjustments and minor corrections in the
finishing, as listed below.
LAUNCHING. Never support a steel boat on the skeg, aft. Support with blocking under the chine near the transom. The boat may rest on the keel forward. Check that the starboard drain plug (forward on the stbd. along keel) is screwed in tightly. Start motor and check that oil gauge and ammeter are registering correctly. Stuffing box on propeller shaft should be hand tightened so that a drop of water passes through every 30-40 seconds when underway. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN OR YOU WILL SCORE SHAFT. There should be very little "wobble" at stuffing box when underway or motor alignment should be checked. After 8-10 hours of operation, the motor may settle in the mounts, necessitating an alignment re-check. Also check stuffing box on top of rudder post. Adjust carburetor high speed jet and distributor "advance" for maximum r.p.m. Consult Motor Manual for "breaking-in" speeds and oil change data.
Mahogany cabins are constructed of seasoned Philippine mahogany. Due to the very nature of wood, it is subject to swelling and shrinking under various weather conditions. Cracks may be filled with mahogany wood dough, leaks may be sealed with Sealer 900, or similar sealer. Stain is Brown mahogany* No. 498. A synthetic base (bakelite) resin varnish is used Cawspar No. 400*. (Blond finishes - Consult Inland Seas) Steel cabins have little or no problems, but if by chance you have a rust spot, it should be treated the same as the hull, and any good marine finish can be applied over it.
WEIGHT. Weight is extremely important in a fast, planing type boat. Do not carry a SINGLE POUND of unnecessary weight as it will adversely affect performance, speed and gasoline consumption. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
*By C. A. Woosley Paint & Color Co., 205 E. 42nd St., New York 17, N.Y. and dealers everywhere.
INLAND SEAS BOAT CO.